How to Solder
Although there are some prototyping boards that allow prototype circuits to be built without soldering, at some stage you will need to commit to a more permanent construction. When you do there is no better alternative than soldering. It is a necessary skill whose subtleties are not always fully understood, resulting in joints that don't work or will fail after a short time. Put basically, soldering is the joining of metals by a fusion of alloys, which have relatively low melting points with the purpose of making an electrical and mechanical connection. The following gives a brief overview of the basic technique.
You'll need a soldering iron, solder, and a wet sponge. Irons of the 15W to 30W range are good for most electronics/printed circuit board work. Using anything higher in wattage will risk damage to the component or the pc board. Using the correct type of solder is also important. Use a thin resin core solder.
For solder to properly adhere to a connection, the metals must be clean and free of all non-metallic matter. You can clean a dirty lug or component with a small steel-bristle brush designed for the purpose, you can also use a solvent such as alcohol. For new components and fresh circuit board it is not usually necessary. When soldering, the idea is to apply the tip to the connection and almost simultaneously apply the solder to the junction between the tip and the connection. You want a small amount of solder to flow between the iron tip and the wire or component, which aids in transferring heat to the connections. The connection becomes hot enough for the solder to flow onto it, forming a solder fillet between all the parts.
Keep the soldering iron against the connection long enough to "cook out" any flux residue, but not so long that the solder "burns up." The time for the entire operation should be very short, just a matter of seconds. Don't let the solder run down the tip, or try to heat up the whole area first. Apply just enough solder to fill the gaps, and no more, otherwise excess solder will flow into places where it is not needed, or where it can cause a short. To complete the process, remove the solder first, then the tip, being careful not to allow the connection to move while the solder is solidifying.
A good connection is one where the solder has uniformly flowed over all the surfaces to be connected, following their contours. The connection appears bright, shiny, and smooth, with all wires in it appearing well soldered. However, if the connection is rough, grainy, or flaky looking, or if the solder formed into little round blobs, or has ridges or sharp points, redo it. Take the time to visually check the connection with those points in mind.
If the joint is a "cold" connection, caused either by insufficient heat, a wire moving, or foreign matter (such as oxides) getting into the connection, the cure is simple and direct: re-heat the joint and apply a little more solder. If that would place too much solder in the joint, you will have to remove the solder before trying again.
You'll need a soldering iron, solder, and a wet sponge. Irons of the 15W to 30W range are good for most electronics/printed circuit board work. Using anything higher in wattage will risk damage to the component or the pc board. Using the correct type of solder is also important. Use a thin resin core solder.
For solder to properly adhere to a connection, the metals must be clean and free of all non-metallic matter. You can clean a dirty lug or component with a small steel-bristle brush designed for the purpose, you can also use a solvent such as alcohol. For new components and fresh circuit board it is not usually necessary. When soldering, the idea is to apply the tip to the connection and almost simultaneously apply the solder to the junction between the tip and the connection. You want a small amount of solder to flow between the iron tip and the wire or component, which aids in transferring heat to the connections. The connection becomes hot enough for the solder to flow onto it, forming a solder fillet between all the parts.
Keep the soldering iron against the connection long enough to "cook out" any flux residue, but not so long that the solder "burns up." The time for the entire operation should be very short, just a matter of seconds. Don't let the solder run down the tip, or try to heat up the whole area first. Apply just enough solder to fill the gaps, and no more, otherwise excess solder will flow into places where it is not needed, or where it can cause a short. To complete the process, remove the solder first, then the tip, being careful not to allow the connection to move while the solder is solidifying.
A good connection is one where the solder has uniformly flowed over all the surfaces to be connected, following their contours. The connection appears bright, shiny, and smooth, with all wires in it appearing well soldered. However, if the connection is rough, grainy, or flaky looking, or if the solder formed into little round blobs, or has ridges or sharp points, redo it. Take the time to visually check the connection with those points in mind.
If the joint is a "cold" connection, caused either by insufficient heat, a wire moving, or foreign matter (such as oxides) getting into the connection, the cure is simple and direct: re-heat the joint and apply a little more solder. If that would place too much solder in the joint, you will have to remove the solder before trying again.
soldering iron
A soldering iron is a hand tool most commonly used in soldering. It supplies heat to melt the solder so that it can flow into the joint between two workpieces
A soldering iron is composed of a heated metal tip and an insulated handle. Heating is often achieved electrically, by passing an electric current (supplied through an electrical cord or battery cables) through the resistive material of a heating element. Another heating method includes combustion of a suitable gas, which can either be delivered through a tank mounted on the iron (flameless), or through an external flame
Less common uses include pyrography (burning designs into wood) and plastic welding
Soldering irons are most often used for installation, repairs and limited production work. High-volume production lines use other soldering methods
A soldering iron is composed of a heated metal tip and an insulated handle. Heating is often achieved electrically, by passing an electric current (supplied through an electrical cord or battery cables) through the resistive material of a heating element. Another heating method includes combustion of a suitable gas, which can either be delivered through a tank mounted on the iron (flameless), or through an external flame
Less common uses include pyrography (burning designs into wood) and plastic welding
Soldering irons are most often used for installation, repairs and limited production work. High-volume production lines use other soldering methods
Point welding machine
This machine is made up of four heads, fixed pole, active pole, machine frame, electricity control box, etc
The machine head is made up of location heating mechanism, horizontal pressing mechanism and vertical pressing mechanism, etc. The double left heads are installed on the fixed pole and can be opened and closed along the fixed pole through the driving of servomotor. The double right heads are installed on the movable pole and can be opened and closed along the movable pole through the driving of servomotor. The right two heads can be opened and closed relatively to the left two heads along the horizontal beam through the driving of the servomotor. The location-heating mechanism can realize the location and the heating. The up and down clamp can realize the pressin
Screwdrivers
Screwdrivers, when used properly will last you for years. But usually there in for a rough ride, these poor things usually suffer from miss use, commonly being used as a chisel. Generally all screwdrivers are made with hardened metal shaft, a special tip for fitting in to screws and a handle for turning
Screwdrivers come in two different forms. A slotted end and a cross point, Cross points benefit by allowing the driver not to slip from the screw
A good variety of screwdrivers will be need for different jobs -
Stubby Screwdrivers
They are made very short, hence the name stubby. They are used in tight spaces
Long Reach Screwdrivers
Dose what is says on the tin really!
Types of screwdriver tips
Slotted
Has a flat blade on the tip of the driver allowing to be used with slotted screws
Phillips
Has a cross head tip looking like a +,
Pozidrive
Similar to the Philips but is made by another company with a slightly different tip
Screwdrivers come in two different forms. A slotted end and a cross point, Cross points benefit by allowing the driver not to slip from the screw
A good variety of screwdrivers will be need for different jobs -
Stubby Screwdrivers
They are made very short, hence the name stubby. They are used in tight spaces
Long Reach Screwdrivers
Dose what is says on the tin really!
Types of screwdriver tips
Slotted
Has a flat blade on the tip of the driver allowing to be used with slotted screws
Phillips
Has a cross head tip looking like a +,
Pozidrive
Similar to the Philips but is made by another company with a slightly different tip
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